Back to a more
technical topic for today's post. Earlier this year I conducted a
short experiment to see just how much color shift my strobes
(monolights) give as the power is varied from min to max. It is
actually an important subject, as color shift is a bad thing if
excessive and can go unnoticed for a long time, but then show up
unexpectedly and catch you off guard (probably at the worst possible
moment, like when an important client is present). This topic doesn't
really fit in with anything posted lately, but the experiment was
completed back in March and the data has been lying around all this
time waiting to be cataloged and the results written up, so finally,
here it is.
Why Should I Care About a Little Color Shift?
A little color shift is probably not a problem at all. The
operative here is the word “little”. Your idea of “little”
may be quite different than mine. One's definition of “little”
will likely be affected by the type of photography they do and just
how picky they are. You might be very picky if photographing products
for a high-end catalog. The rest of us can probably tolerate more
color shift and probably never even notice it. My tolerance for color
shift is somewhere around 300° K (Kelvin) for critical work. Much
above that and my eye says too much. Things like a hair and
background lights can usually tolerate more than that without being
noticed. Your tolerance may be greater or less, that is entirely up
to you.
The point here is to know the characteristics of your equipment so
there will be no surprises. For example, if you know that your lights
shift color quite a bit between min and max power, then you will be
aware of this and try to avoid lighting setups where one light gets
set at high power and another at low power. This isn't something one
normally encounters, but I can see where it could happen. For
example, one light in a large, double diffused softbox mixed with
another light using an efficient reflector.
In addition to variance from min/max power, if you use lights of
different vintage, and/or make, and/or model, it is possible that
they emit a different color light in addition to shifting color over
their power range. It never hurts to fully know your equipment.
What is a
Typical Color Shift for Monolights?
That's a very good question and one that I cannot even begin to fully
answer, mostly due to lack of information, time to fully research the
subject, and a way to present the information in a meaningful way.
A bit poking around on the web reveals that only some (few)
manufactures publish this number. My data is published below. Please
note that I am only looking at monolights, not power pack systems. A
power pack system has the electronics in an external box called a
power pack or generator, whereas monolights have all the electronics
built into the light. Do not confuse the power pack with an external
battery pack.
On the surface, it appears that typical is somewhere around +/- 200 -
300°K. However, this does not factor in the adjustment range. A
light rated +/- 300°K over a 7-stop range is going to perform much
better than a light rated at +/- 200°K over a 4-stop range. This may
explain why some manufactures do not publish the numbers, it gets
confusing.
Looking at the limited data I found, one thing becomes very clear.
There are a few lights that are exceptionally good in terms of color
stability. At the top of my list is the
Paul C. Buf Einstein,
having only +/- 50°K shift over an incredible 9-stop range! That is
followed by the
Photogenic Solaris with +/- 50°K shift over
6-stops and 100°K over 8-stops (
I would be very happy with either
of these). Honorable mention goes to Interfit with +/- 100°K
over 5-stops for the low cost Stellar X and XD models.
Here is the data I found at the manufactures' websites.
Bowens
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 200 (200, 400 WS, 5-stop analog adjustment, AC/DC power
source)
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 400 (400 WS, 5-stop analog adjustment, AC/DC power source)
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 250R (250 WS, 5-stop digital adjustment, AC/DC power source)
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 250R (250 WS, 5-stop digital adjustment, AC/DC power source)
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 500R (500 WS, 5-stop digital adjustment, AC/DC power source)
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 500PRO (500 WS, 5-stop digital adjustment, AC/DC power source)
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 500PRO (500 WS, 5-stop digital adjustment, AC/DC power source)
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 750PRO (750 WS, 5-stop digital adjustment, AC/DC power source)
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 1000PRO (1000 WS, 7-stop digital adjustment, AC/DC power
source)
+/- 300°K -
Gemini 1500PRO (1500 WS, 7-stop digital adjustment, AC/DC power
source)
Paul
C. Buf
+/- 50°K –
Einstein 640 (640 WS, 9-stop digital adjustment)
Interfit
+/- 300°K –
EX150 MKII (150 WS, 4-stop analog adjustment)
+/- 200°K –
EX300 (300 WS, 5-stop analog adjustment)
+/- 200°K –
EXD200 (200 WS, 4-stop digital adjustment)
+/- 200°K –
EXD400 (400 WS, 6-stop digital adjustment)
+/- 200°K –
Venus (150, 300 WS, 4-stop digital adjustment)
+/- 100°K –
Stellar X (150, 300, 600, 1000 WS, 5-stop analog adjustment)
+/- 100°K –
Stellar XD (150, 300, 600, 1000 WS, 5-stop digital adjustment)
+/- 300°K –
Stellar Xtreme (150, 300 WS, power range not specified, analog
adjustment, AC/DC power)
Photogenic
+/- 200°K – StudioMax III Constant Color (160, 320 WS, 6-stop
analog adjustment, AC/DC)
+/- 200°K – StudioMax III Constant Color (320 WS, 6-stop analog
adjustment, AC/DC)
+/- 50°K full to 1/32, 6-stops
+/- 100°K full to 1/128, 8-stops
Solaris PL500DRC (500 WS, digital adjustment) & PL1000DRC (1000
WS, digital adjustment)
How Did My JTL
Mobilights Perform?
Good, especially considering the less than stellar view some people
have of JTL products. Above you can see the patches for the newer
lights from min to max power settings at 1-stop increments. The files
have all been processed using the same white balance setting of
5600°K +20 tint (slight magenta offset).
This next photo shows the patches for the older lights from min to
max power settings at 1-stop increments. The files have all been
processed using the same white balance setting of 5600°K +20 tint
(slight magenta offset).
Looks like the f/11 patch didn't quite
get to f/11. Nonetheless it's the color reading we are after, not
luminance.
In a nut shell, using my minimalist methods for determining color
temperature, I would rate them like this:
+/- 150°K – Mobilight 300 [newer, same flash tube as
the 301] (300 WS, 4-stop analog adjustment, AC/DC)
+/- 150°K – Mobilight 300 [older model] (300
WS, 5-stop analog adjustment, AC/DC)
I own four Mobilights, two sets of two from different vintage. There
are some interesting differences between these two versions that I
will note here. The newer version puts out a full stop more light
compared to the older version. However, the older has an extra stop
of adjustment range and performs better in terms of color
consistency, as it has the same shift, but over a broader range. Both
of them perform quite well in terms of color, better than I expected.
Here is a diagram of my test setup. The monolight is on a stand 9-1/2
ft. from the test target, which is a
Lastolite
12” EZ Balance white balance disc. I took three shots at each
power level to ensure consistency (which was not an issue). Between
each shot, I waited about 5-seconds, which was probably not
necessary, but I wanted to make sure any color shift was from the
power setting and not from the capacitors not being fully charged.
For anyone interested, here are the settings to get white and the
measured patch readings. The f/stop was read from the Polaris light
meter and is subject to some error due to the limited resolution of
the meter's graphical readout (it's good enough for normal use, but
lacking for scientific measurements). You might also note that the
green/magenta tint had to be tweaked a little, which suggest that
there is also a minor change to the spectral envelope as the power
changes, though these are small adjustments.
Mobilight 300,
new version
f/16 - 5600K +20 tint, 248, 248, 248
f/11 - 5750K +21 tint, 244, 244, 244
f/8 - 5800K +24 tint, 247, 247, 247
f/5.6 - 5884K +24 tint, 252, 252, 252
Mobilight 300,
old version
f/11 - 5500K +15 tint, 241, 241, 241
f/8 - 5600K +20 tint, 249, 249, 249
f/5.6 - 5600K +20 tint, 247, 248, 248
f/4 - 5700K +18 tint, 245, 245, 245
f/2.8 - 5800K +18 tint, 244, 244, 244
Coming Next
I
swore off doing another series, but am considering a short series on
some of the photographer's tools. It will be the kind of information
that could be useful to virtually anyone who uses a camera, beginner
on up. Nothing technical, just a little attention to an often
overlooked topic. So next time you come to Studiography, bring a
friend along. :-)
Until then...
-Gene
Gotta love the Einstein! That's my first monolight and I'd only change to another light if Paul Buff comes out with a Pack system that utilizes the same technology =D
ReplyDelete